An Evening Anna

As usual, I'm a little late to the party when it comes to popular indie patterns. I am probably the last person in blog land to express my love for BHL's Anna dress, but I'm about to do it anyway (sorrynotsorry!).

This is THE most flattering, comfortable and amazing dress I have ever owned, let alone made. Construction-wise it's not perfect, but neither are any of the RTW dresses in my closet! It's soft and flowy. It's both modest and daring. The combination of colours and fabrics (and time!) somehow magically came together to form a dress that is completely me. That feels amazing. I may never accomplish it again. If I do, I hope it's a coat...

The Details:

Pattern: Anna Dress - By Hand London
Size: US 10.
Variation: Maxi length with slash neckline and side slit. Full lining.
Alterations: Shortened waist, shortened shoulders, shortened hem, used shorter back zipper.
Fabric: Navy bamboo/viscose + weird baby blue viscose from the Remnant Warehouse. Burnout poly chiffon - thrifted.
Necklace: thrifted. Hair piece: somewhere in Katoomba...

I made this dress specifically to wear to the inaugural Recycla-Ball (like recyclable!?) - a formal evening function celebrating sustainability and the arts at my university. The entire evening was the brainchild of my dear friend Mel and myself, and is the main reason for the lull in sewing projects around here these past few months. Between the two of us, and a couple of helpful friends and mothers, we made almost all of the decorations, including an awesome DIY photo-booth with props! The guests were encouraged to wear formal attire that was either handmade or altered, vintage or thrifted. The night was completely amazing and still feels like a dream. I was planning on doing a whole post about the Ball, but honestly I can't bear to think about paper flowers just yet...

The thing I love most about BHL patterns is the way they show the included ease for each size. This dress needed enough room for a night filled with mini hamburgers and sorbet, fancy cocktails and all of the dancing (followed by a speech! ahhh!), so I confidently cut a size US 10.

The good thing about being late to indie pattern parties is that I go in fully aware of the problems I might encounter. This pattern was in no way designed to fit a petite frame right out of the packet. But that's okay. It's the prettiest dress pattern I have ever seen. Why learn to sew if not to make pretty things fit properly?

Petite Alterations for Anna:

Basically, the unaltered Anna dress fits me perfectly horizontally. Vertically, however, I am suddenly transformed into a small child waddling around the house in her mother's clothing. It's seriously bizarre. I didn't make a muslin because... I don't know. Paper flowers were more important at the time! The following alterations were all made mid-construction.

1. Removed 1-2cm (about 5/8 inch) from the shoulder seam, starting at the neckline and grading slightly back out toward the sleeve to avoid shrinking the armscye. This pulled the bust pleats up into the right position and solved the neckline gaping. There is still wrinkling around the sleeves. I don't know whether this is a result of the shoulder seam change or if it's just the drape of my fabric, but it seems pretty similar to the examples on the BHL website.

2. Removed about an inch (possibly more) at waist seam.

3. Removed approximately one basquillion inches from the hemline. Seriously, it was a lot.

My other major alteration was a semi accident. Out of pure laziness I used the only black invisible zip at hand, and decided to button the top and leave a keyhole style slit at the upper back. On the night of the Ball, ten minutes before people started coming through the doors, I threw on my dress only to realise I had completely forgotten to attach the button! So, I folded in the edges and went with it...
After seeing all the photos from the night, I actually love the V shape in the back. Obviously, it would be nicer and neater if it were intentional, but I can't decide whether to leave it or change it...
In the picture below it's pinned closed the way I had intended.

Construction Details:

The main navy fabric is a weird and wonderful blend of bamboo and rayon. It has an odd texture with a faint sheen that almost looks like crepe in these photos. It was the tiniest bit too sheer to use on its own, so I added a full lining of another weird rayon substance (not the bemburg I was hoping for). Online shopping is risky business...

As much as I love the feel and pressability (that's a word now) of rayon, it has it's problems. Half an hour of meticulous ironing was completely undone after a 2 minute drive to the photo shoot destination... Don't even know what is going on with the bust pleats in these photos. I promise it was lovely and smooth on the night!

I used french seams throughout the lining and waist seam, and pinked the main skirt seams to avoid bulk. I added facings to the lining to avoid any pale blue from peaking out around the neckline, and handpicked the lining to the main fabric along the side slit. The awesome orange stuff on the front panel is a piece of velvety burnout chiffon that has been in my stash forever.

Obligatory leg flash!

Angelina Jolie makes it look so much easier...
It's the end of Winter, so no judging the ghostly colour of my leg... I wore lacy black tights to the event and it looked much more glamorous. I hope.

So, I'm pretty sure this is the first of many Anna dresses.
Have you made a version? Or multiple? If so, show me show me!

And have a lovely week :)

A Spring/Summer Capsule Wardrobe

[images via Pinterest]

Something has changed in me over this last year. Maybe it's just the recent lack of bedroom storage, but I suddenly cannot stand stuff. So, in the spirit of Spring cleaning, last week I unpacked my Summer clothes and began a much needed cull.

Creating a capsule wardrobe for Winter was helpful on so many levels. I'm the complete opposite of a morning person, so anything that makes getting out of pajamas a little easier is a very good thing. The Summer version has been a bit more difficult, but I'm pretty pleased with where I'm at. As usual, all images and their sources can be found on my Pinterest board.

My Summer style can be broken down into two basic recipes:
1. Loose top + comfortable pants + flats.
2. Loose top + high waist skirt + flats.

From these two recipes I can create at least four silhouettes, just by swapping out the jeans for shorts, or the mini for a maxi skirt.

If you're interested in this exercise, you can read more about proportions and silhouettes here and here :)

The result is a capsule wardrobe of 20 items, excluding accessories like belts, etc. I used Polyvore to create a basic outline of the items - mostly based on clothes I already own, and items I'm planning to make. Neither of my capsule wardrobes contain dresses - but not because I don't wear them! I want to give myself room for experimentation, especially when it comes to sewing. There are so many shapes and lengths that I feel comfortable wearing in different situations, so it would be silly to limit myself strictly to two or three styles! Heather of Closet Case Files wrote a great post a while back on a similar topic - dressing for multiple identities/situations - definitely worth a read!

I'm super excited to get started on some warm weather sewing projects. A floaty button-down is currently in progress, and my stash has grown significantly larger (and prettier!) after a massive fabric sale last week... So much for having less stuff!

Hope everyone has been having a lovely Spring/Fall! Have you been making any sewing or wardrobe plans for the new season? I'd love to hear about them!

A Striped Knit Dress - With Sparkles!

I bought this organic cotton jersey a few months back, after seeing this knit dress from Madewell (no longer available). I have been loving the combination of horizontal and vertical stripes for a while now, and there's nothing better than a looming essay on rhetorical criticism to motivate me to sew!

Warning: Despite my sad hair day, this is a pretty picture-heavy post. This dress is that awesome!

If you have been reading this blog a little while, you might recognise the bodice from my blue striped top. The unexpectedly trusty Simplicity 9427 was a pretty perfect candidate for this dress style.

I cut the size XS, stopping at the waist-line, plus taking a slice out of the center back and a decent amount from the side seams to account for stretch. As happy as I am with the result, I sort of wish I had stayed true to my inspiration and straightened the front side seams. 

Next time I guess!

All seams and top-stitching were done using a ballpoint needle and zig-zag stitch on my regular machine. I used a strip of elastic to gather the skirt pieces before attaching them to the bodice. This means that the waist seam is extra flexible when pulling the dress on and off. PJ level comfort!

The jersey is pretty lightweight, so it's going to be awesome in Summer. For now, though, it goes nicely with tights and a cardigan!

Because the fabric is so thin, I decided to line the bodice for a bit more structure and opacity. The back panel is lined with self-fabric, and was literally the only stripe-matching required for this dress! I lined the front pieces using a soft and slightly thicker cream knit from my scrap pile. 

The greatest thing about this jersey is near invisible in the above photos, so here are some gratuitous close ups. Gold sparkles!

If you want to get your hands on some of this gold striped organic cotton jersey, it's still available via The Remnant Warehouse (AU & NZ). I'm hoping to scrounge a casual top out of my leftovers!

Lining a knit garment is not something I have done before, but with careful pinning it was pretty straightforward. The result is beautiful. I love the clean neckline and the way it makes the whole dress feel more secure. I'm positive that it will last longer too. 

Have you ever lined a knit garment (the Moneta dress, perhaps)? I'd love to hear what you think!

Happy Sunday!

A Blue Knit Shrug

I'm so excited to finally share this project!

In between shop orders and uni work, I have been slowly working away on this knitted shrug, using the free Rectangle Knit Shrug pattern by Lion Brand.

The pattern comes together surprisingly quickly if you're a reasonably fast knitter. I had only just started to go insane by the time I finished the second piece. Plus, all that stockinette makes this the perfect movie-watching project.

I never really understood the appeal of owning a "shrug" (they're weird and awkward and what if your front gets cold?!). That is, until I saw this glittery navy version. Maybe it's the styling, but something about it is just cool. I still wish mine was glittery.

  

My shrug was made using a 5ply (sport weight) merino yarn from Bendigo Woolen Mills. It's super warm and I love the muted blue colour, which is a little darker in person.

I only made a few changes when following the pattern: My sleeve cuffs are a little shorter, and I used a different method to join the pieces at the back seam.
The method I used (tutorial here) leaves you with a nice neat seam that is practically invisible on the outside (should have taken a photo...). The seam is also flat enough to incorporate embroidery like I did!

I included the button-holes but ended up leaving off the buttons. As awesome as wooden buttons would have looked, I honestly have no idea why they are recommended. Unless you go up a size (I knit a small) or happen to have a miniature ribcage, it looks pretty terrible pulled closed!

The embroidery was kind of a last minute, late-night decision. I wanted to add something special to compliment all those hours worth of stockinette. It's a very very simple design: just a few lines of running stitch using a fine orange yarn from my stash, with some silver and white threaded through. I love it though, and it seems to make all the difference when deciding whether or not I should wear it.

Am I a converted shrug-wearer now? We'll see, but I think just this one might be enough. I'd love to hear how you all feel about the truly fascinating topic that is the shrug :P

Hope everyone has had a lovely week!

Olive Green Darling Ranges

This is my second version of the Darling Ranges dress (first version here). It's also my first project as part of Sally's Summer Stashbust challenge! I found this olive green rayon for $5 at Lifeline at least 6 months ago. It's so hard to find nice prints in rayon, so I couldn't resist this unusual floral design.

Pattern details:
Similar to last time; I raised the neckline a few centimeters, and took a little length out of the shoulders. The shoulders are still a little too long for me, making the neckline a bit gapey and the bust darts a little low. The drag lines are even more noticeable in this soft fabric. Next time I'll revert back to the original neckline and take even more from the shoulders.

For comfort, and to stop the sleeves from twisting around, I replaced the elastic cuffs with shirt-style cuffs. The insides are all French seamed - it's so much nicer in rayon. I also shortened the hem quite a lot. This length works much better on my short legs!

Outfit details:
Necklace: Fawn & Rose
Leather belt: vintage
Boots: All 4 Me

You'll have to excuse my tired face. This is literally the third attempt this week at photographing this dress. It still clashes pretty badly with the brick wall, but it was the only place where I was sheltered from horrible icy winds. So thankful for pockets!

In the spirit of being more organised, I recently ordered 100 little wooden shirt buttons from SkullButtonry (currently on vacation). I get so tired of never having quite enough of the same button, and I never realised how much more affordable buttons are in bulk (duh!).

All the profits from the SkullButtonry supplies store go towards Foundation 18's orphanage "Yayasan Dharma Sadana", as well as education outreach programs and humanitarian work in Indonesia.

Definitely no regrets here!

Happy Friday! Hope everyone has had a great week!

A Winter Capsule Wardrobe

This is my third Armidale Winter, yet it's the first that I have felt the cold quite so deeply. 

To any readers living in snowy climates (or even local Armidaleans), I sure sound like a lightweight. Where I grew up on the coast, Winter is just a chance to rest and recuperate before another intense Summer. When it comes to temperature in the negatives, a lightweight is exactly what I am! 

Living in an old, drafty, ground-level house has forced me to realise that my "Winter Wardrobe" is non-existent. When I need to function like a normal person, an overflowing drawer of pajama pants just doesn't cut it. So, in an attempt to make cold mornings a little less grueling, I have been working away on a capsule wardrobe for the season.

Above is a moodboard that I created (because who doesn't love a moodboard) to focus on my favourite Winter silhouettes. All image sources can be found via my Pinterest board.

My Winter style revolves around 2 fairly similar silhouettes:

1. Loose shirt/sweater + skinny pants + boots.

2. Loose shirt/sweater + short skirt with tights + flats. 

If you're interested in this exercise, you can read about silhouettes and proportions here and here.

I used Polyvore to create a basic capsule wardrobe of 24 items. Pretty much all elements of my two silhouettes are interchangeable, as well as being perfect for layering.

Most of these items are based on things I already own and wear a lot (boots, pants, shirts, etc.). I am in no position, financial or ethical, to go on a shopping spree for new clothes. With the exception of a quality, fleece-lined parka and some grey flats, I plan to make the rest.

My fabric stash currently contains the supplies for an olive-green suede bomber jacket, a grey boiled-wool coat, plus whatever I can cobble together to make a few skirts. Totally set for Sally's Summer Stashbust challenge!

By the time this whole process is complete, I'll likely have to pack away my new creations and start again for warmer weather. This time next year, I'll be toasty. For now, I'll continue to fall asleep dreaming of over-sized wool sweaters.

Have you been working through the Wardrobe Architect series? I'd love to hear your thoughts!

PS: While writing this post, I was overcome by a strange need to justify spending this much time talking about my "wardrobe" (does blogging ever make you feel like a total narcissist?). Keep an eye out for an eventual fashion-related opinion piece...

Me Made May - Week 4

 May is almost over. This time of year always leaves me feeling a little anxious. Partly because it's exam season, and partly because I never feel as though I've made the most of the last beautiful weeks of Autumn.

I'll admit, it's going to be a relief not having to hassle my dear photographer quite so many times a week. How do all those stylish fashion bloggers do it?!

Day 11
Shirt: My first Archer! Unblogged as it's currently button-less. Expect a more detailed post soon.
Grey top: Cotton On
Jeans: Cotton On

Day 12
Sorry for the blurry camera-phone photo.
Top: Mint striped Coco. First repeat of the month. Not doing too badly so far.
Jacket: Thrifted. Love this jacket - it goes with literally everything!
Jeans: Old, Just Jeans

Day 13
Top: Me made, unblogged. Just a simple kimono sleeved crop-top. Made from a super soft, possibly wool-blend, thrifted scarf. Miss P has a great tutorial for drafting your own :)
Beanie: Me made, buy here.
Jeans: Cotton On
Necklace: Zose Designs

Day 14
Oops. No photo, but I have been wearing an old pair of me made pajama pants! Comfy, low-rise, made from checked flannelette with ribbing for the waistband. Nothing groundbreaking.

One week left to go :)

But first, assignments! And cuddles...

Linen Birthday Dress

Here it is, the belated birthday dress post!

Before I get into details, I want to pose a little scenario for you:

You have three days left until the event when you realise that the fabric for your original dress plan isn't going to arrive on time. You are left with three options:
1. Give up and wear an older self-made dress that's nice enough but doesn't fit quite the way you'd like it to.
2. Give up even further, wear an RTW dress and quietly feel like a failure all evening as people ask "Ooh, is this the dress you made??" and you reply "Nope."
3. PANIC and make a completely different dress with the three remaining evenings you have left! Screw the dishes!

 As you can probably guess, I picked option 3, and will be using your responses to determine my own level of sanity.

So, the dress.
This thing was made entirely from my fabric stash, and I actually like it far more than my original plan.

I cobbled together my own pattern, half copying the bodice from a RTW dress that I love. The skirt is pleated in front, and gathered around the back and sides. The black sash was added last-minute for a bit more waist definition. I promise it's not covering anything wonky!

The skirt is this amazing cream linen I bought for no reason from the remnant warehouse. It's now my favourite thing in the world. Super durable and so opaque that you can't even see black tights through one layer, but still so soft and buttery that it almost feels edible...

The bodice is made from a single upholstery sample square. It was literally the only thing in my stash that complemented the linen. The edges frayed pretty fast, and there was terrifyingly little to work with, let alone pattern-match. In the back of my mind, my 8th grade Home Ec. teacher was folding her arms and frowning. You can't make a dress out of upholstery fabric! Go to the principals office!

But you know what, Miss? You can, and it's awesome.
In fact, my favourite thing about this dress is knowing that, somewhere in the world, there's probably a couch made from this fabric.

 Each bodice seam is top-stitched open using cream thread. I put an exposed metal zipper in the back (the longest jeans zipper I could find), and used a little coordinating necklace clasp to hold the top closed.

The bodice is lined using the same cream linen. Nothing could be more luxurious! I closed the lining by hand-stitching around the zipper and at the waistline. The skirt hem is also hand-stitched. It sounds like an insane decision, considering how little time I had to make this dress, but it meant that all the finishing touches could be done in the living room when the family was arriving. It was actually pretty relaxing.

I don't have any pictures of the dress in action on the night, but I can assure you, it was comfy, and the dishes didn't even notice their neglect!

I'd love to hear what you think. Even if it's just how badly you now want some linen :P
Hope everyone has had a great week!