An Evening Anna

As usual, I'm a little late to the party when it comes to popular indie patterns. I am probably the last person in blog land to express my love for BHL's Anna dress, but I'm about to do it anyway (sorrynotsorry!).

This is THE most flattering, comfortable and amazing dress I have ever owned, let alone made. Construction-wise it's not perfect, but neither are any of the RTW dresses in my closet! It's soft and flowy. It's both modest and daring. The combination of colours and fabrics (and time!) somehow magically came together to form a dress that is completely me. That feels amazing. I may never accomplish it again. If I do, I hope it's a coat...

The Details:

Pattern: Anna Dress - By Hand London
Size: US 10.
Variation: Maxi length with slash neckline and side slit. Full lining.
Alterations: Shortened waist, shortened shoulders, shortened hem, used shorter back zipper.
Fabric: Navy bamboo/viscose + weird baby blue viscose from the Remnant Warehouse. Burnout poly chiffon - thrifted.
Necklace: thrifted. Hair piece: somewhere in Katoomba...

I made this dress specifically to wear to the inaugural Recycla-Ball (like recyclable!?) - a formal evening function celebrating sustainability and the arts at my university. The entire evening was the brainchild of my dear friend Mel and myself, and is the main reason for the lull in sewing projects around here these past few months. Between the two of us, and a couple of helpful friends and mothers, we made almost all of the decorations, including an awesome DIY photo-booth with props! The guests were encouraged to wear formal attire that was either handmade or altered, vintage or thrifted. The night was completely amazing and still feels like a dream. I was planning on doing a whole post about the Ball, but honestly I can't bear to think about paper flowers just yet...

The thing I love most about BHL patterns is the way they show the included ease for each size. This dress needed enough room for a night filled with mini hamburgers and sorbet, fancy cocktails and all of the dancing (followed by a speech! ahhh!), so I confidently cut a size US 10.

The good thing about being late to indie pattern parties is that I go in fully aware of the problems I might encounter. This pattern was in no way designed to fit a petite frame right out of the packet. But that's okay. It's the prettiest dress pattern I have ever seen. Why learn to sew if not to make pretty things fit properly?

Petite Alterations for Anna:

Basically, the unaltered Anna dress fits me perfectly horizontally. Vertically, however, I am suddenly transformed into a small child waddling around the house in her mother's clothing. It's seriously bizarre. I didn't make a muslin because... I don't know. Paper flowers were more important at the time! The following alterations were all made mid-construction.

1. Removed 1-2cm (about 5/8 inch) from the shoulder seam, starting at the neckline and grading slightly back out toward the sleeve to avoid shrinking the armscye. This pulled the bust pleats up into the right position and solved the neckline gaping. There is still wrinkling around the sleeves. I don't know whether this is a result of the shoulder seam change or if it's just the drape of my fabric, but it seems pretty similar to the examples on the BHL website.

2. Removed about an inch (possibly more) at waist seam.

3. Removed approximately one basquillion inches from the hemline. Seriously, it was a lot.

My other major alteration was a semi accident. Out of pure laziness I used the only black invisible zip at hand, and decided to button the top and leave a keyhole style slit at the upper back. On the night of the Ball, ten minutes before people started coming through the doors, I threw on my dress only to realise I had completely forgotten to attach the button! So, I folded in the edges and went with it...
After seeing all the photos from the night, I actually love the V shape in the back. Obviously, it would be nicer and neater if it were intentional, but I can't decide whether to leave it or change it...
In the picture below it's pinned closed the way I had intended.

Construction Details:

The main navy fabric is a weird and wonderful blend of bamboo and rayon. It has an odd texture with a faint sheen that almost looks like crepe in these photos. It was the tiniest bit too sheer to use on its own, so I added a full lining of another weird rayon substance (not the bemburg I was hoping for). Online shopping is risky business...

As much as I love the feel and pressability (that's a word now) of rayon, it has it's problems. Half an hour of meticulous ironing was completely undone after a 2 minute drive to the photo shoot destination... Don't even know what is going on with the bust pleats in these photos. I promise it was lovely and smooth on the night!

I used french seams throughout the lining and waist seam, and pinked the main skirt seams to avoid bulk. I added facings to the lining to avoid any pale blue from peaking out around the neckline, and handpicked the lining to the main fabric along the side slit. The awesome orange stuff on the front panel is a piece of velvety burnout chiffon that has been in my stash forever.

Obligatory leg flash!

Angelina Jolie makes it look so much easier...
It's the end of Winter, so no judging the ghostly colour of my leg... I wore lacy black tights to the event and it looked much more glamorous. I hope.

So, I'm pretty sure this is the first of many Anna dresses.
Have you made a version? Or multiple? If so, show me show me!

And have a lovely week :)

The Senna LBD!

Hi everyone! Just wanted to thank you all so much for the lovely comments on my last post. Knowing that people have so much faith in my little business is totally inspiring :)

Today's project is exciting for a couple of reasons: it's a completely new style for me, and it's also my first foray into pattern testing!

When I first saw Lindsay's newest pattern, the Senna dress, I knew that I was destined to make a little black version. It looks like I wasn't the only one; check out these gorgeous LBD Senna dresses by Mady and Beth!

Although pencil skirts and tight-fitted clothing aren't my usual cup of tea, I was drawn to the lovely combination of ruched skirt with loose, blouson style top. The versatility of this pattern makes it ideal for trying out a new style or silhouette - if all else fails, it makes some great separates. The sleeve length is perfection, and I do love a kimono top!

Being somewhat lacking in the tall and slender department, I had some doubts about ever looking as demure as Lindsay does in her floral number. For this reason, my version is a secret two-piece!

Using a super drapey knit fabric from the Remnant Warehouse, I cut a size 10 for both skirt and top variations. I left the top longer in length, so that it just tucks beneath the skirt waistband.

Despite being amazingly soft, my fabric was a little more lightweight than it should have been (the toils of internet shopping...), so tights are pretty much a necessity. The plus side of this accident is that it ruches extremely well. Rather than shirring, I stitched over a thin strip of elastic at each side seam. This is the recommended method in the released pattern, and it's so simple and effective!

My skirt looks a lot shorter than the pattern intends, but it wasn't cut that way. Another positive of the thin fabric is that I can pull the gathers up and down and adjust the length however I like! Wearing it as an extra-ruched mini feels a bit more secure, and I think it's more flattering on my short legs :D

In all, I'm really happy with this outfit. Like most knits, it comes together ridiculously fast - I finished it in an afternoon! And making separates has already proven to be a great idea. The close fit of the skirt will take a bit of getting used to, but I'm imagining so many awesome batwing blouse/baggy sweater combinations!

Despite my lack of tight-skirt confidence, I'll admit that these photos turned out pretty great. It's all in the posture! These dorky little legs have minds of their own (and plaid tights make it so much worse!) Maybe one day I'll show you some outtakes... 
In time, when I have perfected the art of walking and standing sensibly, this skirt will be a serious staple!

What do you think? Are you planning your own Senna dress?

Obligatory Disclaimer: This is not a paid review. The Senna pattern was provided for free, as compensation for honest feedback during the testing process. All opinions are my own.

A Striped Knit Dress - With Sparkles!

I bought this organic cotton jersey a few months back, after seeing this knit dress from Madewell (no longer available). I have been loving the combination of horizontal and vertical stripes for a while now, and there's nothing better than a looming essay on rhetorical criticism to motivate me to sew!

Warning: Despite my sad hair day, this is a pretty picture-heavy post. This dress is that awesome!

If you have been reading this blog a little while, you might recognise the bodice from my blue striped top. The unexpectedly trusty Simplicity 9427 was a pretty perfect candidate for this dress style.

I cut the size XS, stopping at the waist-line, plus taking a slice out of the center back and a decent amount from the side seams to account for stretch. As happy as I am with the result, I sort of wish I had stayed true to my inspiration and straightened the front side seams. 

Next time I guess!

All seams and top-stitching were done using a ballpoint needle and zig-zag stitch on my regular machine. I used a strip of elastic to gather the skirt pieces before attaching them to the bodice. This means that the waist seam is extra flexible when pulling the dress on and off. PJ level comfort!

The jersey is pretty lightweight, so it's going to be awesome in Summer. For now, though, it goes nicely with tights and a cardigan!

Because the fabric is so thin, I decided to line the bodice for a bit more structure and opacity. The back panel is lined with self-fabric, and was literally the only stripe-matching required for this dress! I lined the front pieces using a soft and slightly thicker cream knit from my scrap pile. 

The greatest thing about this jersey is near invisible in the above photos, so here are some gratuitous close ups. Gold sparkles!

If you want to get your hands on some of this gold striped organic cotton jersey, it's still available via The Remnant Warehouse (AU & NZ). I'm hoping to scrounge a casual top out of my leftovers!

Lining a knit garment is not something I have done before, but with careful pinning it was pretty straightforward. The result is beautiful. I love the clean neckline and the way it makes the whole dress feel more secure. I'm positive that it will last longer too. 

Have you ever lined a knit garment (the Moneta dress, perhaps)? I'd love to hear what you think!

Happy Sunday!

Olive Green Darling Ranges

This is my second version of the Darling Ranges dress (first version here). It's also my first project as part of Sally's Summer Stashbust challenge! I found this olive green rayon for $5 at Lifeline at least 6 months ago. It's so hard to find nice prints in rayon, so I couldn't resist this unusual floral design.

Pattern details:
Similar to last time; I raised the neckline a few centimeters, and took a little length out of the shoulders. The shoulders are still a little too long for me, making the neckline a bit gapey and the bust darts a little low. The drag lines are even more noticeable in this soft fabric. Next time I'll revert back to the original neckline and take even more from the shoulders.

For comfort, and to stop the sleeves from twisting around, I replaced the elastic cuffs with shirt-style cuffs. The insides are all French seamed - it's so much nicer in rayon. I also shortened the hem quite a lot. This length works much better on my short legs!

Outfit details:
Necklace: Fawn & Rose
Leather belt: vintage
Boots: All 4 Me

You'll have to excuse my tired face. This is literally the third attempt this week at photographing this dress. It still clashes pretty badly with the brick wall, but it was the only place where I was sheltered from horrible icy winds. So thankful for pockets!

In the spirit of being more organised, I recently ordered 100 little wooden shirt buttons from SkullButtonry (currently on vacation). I get so tired of never having quite enough of the same button, and I never realised how much more affordable buttons are in bulk (duh!).

All the profits from the SkullButtonry supplies store go towards Foundation 18's orphanage "Yayasan Dharma Sadana", as well as education outreach programs and humanitarian work in Indonesia.

Definitely no regrets here!

Happy Friday! Hope everyone has had a great week!

Me Made May - Week 3

Halfway there!

Day 7
Black coat: Thrifted
Necklace: Fawn & Rose
Dress: An old refashion, unblogged. The original dress was a too-tight, button-down maxi dress with frayed button holes. Now it's very comfortable, although the neckline is a little too loose. It looks like a mess in the above photo, but the front section of the hem is actually a ruffle:

Day 8
Had to resort to phone camera selfies.
Top: Vintage
Skirt: Self-drafted. Just a gathered rectangle with an invisible side zipper. This skirt fits comfortably, but I'm still not sure whether the colours or the strange satin fabric is really my style. Maybe it just needs pockets.

Day 9
Navy cardigan: Target
Earrings: Vintage
Dress: Another refashion - such a basic one that it really wasn't worth a blog post. I love the loose fit and the off-center print, but I think I still need to shorten the hem by a few inches.

Day 10
Beanie: Me-made [buy here]
Top: My Simplicity Kimono Tee. Still super comfortable; perfect for hermit days. Must remember to make more of these!

In other news, my African Violets are flowering for the first time, and Miss Beanie is growing fluffy Winter fur!

Linen Birthday Dress

Here it is, the belated birthday dress post!

Before I get into details, I want to pose a little scenario for you:

You have three days left until the event when you realise that the fabric for your original dress plan isn't going to arrive on time. You are left with three options:
1. Give up and wear an older self-made dress that's nice enough but doesn't fit quite the way you'd like it to.
2. Give up even further, wear an RTW dress and quietly feel like a failure all evening as people ask "Ooh, is this the dress you made??" and you reply "Nope."
3. PANIC and make a completely different dress with the three remaining evenings you have left! Screw the dishes!

 As you can probably guess, I picked option 3, and will be using your responses to determine my own level of sanity.

So, the dress.
This thing was made entirely from my fabric stash, and I actually like it far more than my original plan.

I cobbled together my own pattern, half copying the bodice from a RTW dress that I love. The skirt is pleated in front, and gathered around the back and sides. The black sash was added last-minute for a bit more waist definition. I promise it's not covering anything wonky!

The skirt is this amazing cream linen I bought for no reason from the remnant warehouse. It's now my favourite thing in the world. Super durable and so opaque that you can't even see black tights through one layer, but still so soft and buttery that it almost feels edible...

The bodice is made from a single upholstery sample square. It was literally the only thing in my stash that complemented the linen. The edges frayed pretty fast, and there was terrifyingly little to work with, let alone pattern-match. In the back of my mind, my 8th grade Home Ec. teacher was folding her arms and frowning. You can't make a dress out of upholstery fabric! Go to the principals office!

But you know what, Miss? You can, and it's awesome.
In fact, my favourite thing about this dress is knowing that, somewhere in the world, there's probably a couch made from this fabric.

 Each bodice seam is top-stitched open using cream thread. I put an exposed metal zipper in the back (the longest jeans zipper I could find), and used a little coordinating necklace clasp to hold the top closed.

The bodice is lined using the same cream linen. Nothing could be more luxurious! I closed the lining by hand-stitching around the zipper and at the waistline. The skirt hem is also hand-stitched. It sounds like an insane decision, considering how little time I had to make this dress, but it meant that all the finishing touches could be done in the living room when the family was arriving. It was actually pretty relaxing.

I don't have any pictures of the dress in action on the night, but I can assure you, it was comfy, and the dishes didn't even notice their neglect!

I'd love to hear what you think. Even if it's just how badly you now want some linen :P
Hope everyone has had a great week!

Me Made May - Week 2

Last week was a little crazy, but so far I have just managed to stick to my pledge of 4 handmade items a week. The main problem I'm facing is the cold weather; I have plenty of short floral skirts and summery tops, but a severe lack of anything warm and cosy!

I'm planning on sewing up a few Archers for the coming weeks, but right now I'm seriously pining for a bomber jacket!

Day 3

My trusty grey handwarmers  - me made [buy here].
Green skirt - me made, unblogged.
This skirt is one of the first pieces of clothing I ever made, but I still wear it quite a lot. The waistband is just a really wide strip of elastic, so the join is pretty messy. The fabric is warm and kind of spongy - perfect for Autumn.

Day 4

Blue Coco dress - me made 
Red beanie - me made [buy here]
Knit scarf - Modcloth.

Day 5

Darling Ranges dress - me made
Black coat - thrifted
Boots - Route 66.

Day 6

The birthday dress! This is just a teaser photo - I'll do a full post about it soon. You can probably see that it's nothing like my original plan, but I love what I ended up with in the end :)

Hope everyone's second me-made week went well!