An Evening Anna

As usual, I'm a little late to the party when it comes to popular indie patterns. I am probably the last person in blog land to express my love for BHL's Anna dress, but I'm about to do it anyway (sorrynotsorry!).

This is THE most flattering, comfortable and amazing dress I have ever owned, let alone made. Construction-wise it's not perfect, but neither are any of the RTW dresses in my closet! It's soft and flowy. It's both modest and daring. The combination of colours and fabrics (and time!) somehow magically came together to form a dress that is completely me. That feels amazing. I may never accomplish it again. If I do, I hope it's a coat...

The Details:

Pattern: Anna Dress - By Hand London
Size: US 10.
Variation: Maxi length with slash neckline and side slit. Full lining.
Alterations: Shortened waist, shortened shoulders, shortened hem, used shorter back zipper.
Fabric: Navy bamboo/viscose + weird baby blue viscose from the Remnant Warehouse. Burnout poly chiffon - thrifted.
Necklace: thrifted. Hair piece: somewhere in Katoomba...

I made this dress specifically to wear to the inaugural Recycla-Ball (like recyclable!?) - a formal evening function celebrating sustainability and the arts at my university. The entire evening was the brainchild of my dear friend Mel and myself, and is the main reason for the lull in sewing projects around here these past few months. Between the two of us, and a couple of helpful friends and mothers, we made almost all of the decorations, including an awesome DIY photo-booth with props! The guests were encouraged to wear formal attire that was either handmade or altered, vintage or thrifted. The night was completely amazing and still feels like a dream. I was planning on doing a whole post about the Ball, but honestly I can't bear to think about paper flowers just yet...

The thing I love most about BHL patterns is the way they show the included ease for each size. This dress needed enough room for a night filled with mini hamburgers and sorbet, fancy cocktails and all of the dancing (followed by a speech! ahhh!), so I confidently cut a size US 10.

The good thing about being late to indie pattern parties is that I go in fully aware of the problems I might encounter. This pattern was in no way designed to fit a petite frame right out of the packet. But that's okay. It's the prettiest dress pattern I have ever seen. Why learn to sew if not to make pretty things fit properly?

Petite Alterations for Anna:

Basically, the unaltered Anna dress fits me perfectly horizontally. Vertically, however, I am suddenly transformed into a small child waddling around the house in her mother's clothing. It's seriously bizarre. I didn't make a muslin because... I don't know. Paper flowers were more important at the time! The following alterations were all made mid-construction.

1. Removed 1-2cm (about 5/8 inch) from the shoulder seam, starting at the neckline and grading slightly back out toward the sleeve to avoid shrinking the armscye. This pulled the bust pleats up into the right position and solved the neckline gaping. There is still wrinkling around the sleeves. I don't know whether this is a result of the shoulder seam change or if it's just the drape of my fabric, but it seems pretty similar to the examples on the BHL website.

2. Removed about an inch (possibly more) at waist seam.

3. Removed approximately one basquillion inches from the hemline. Seriously, it was a lot.

My other major alteration was a semi accident. Out of pure laziness I used the only black invisible zip at hand, and decided to button the top and leave a keyhole style slit at the upper back. On the night of the Ball, ten minutes before people started coming through the doors, I threw on my dress only to realise I had completely forgotten to attach the button! So, I folded in the edges and went with it...
After seeing all the photos from the night, I actually love the V shape in the back. Obviously, it would be nicer and neater if it were intentional, but I can't decide whether to leave it or change it...
In the picture below it's pinned closed the way I had intended.

Construction Details:

The main navy fabric is a weird and wonderful blend of bamboo and rayon. It has an odd texture with a faint sheen that almost looks like crepe in these photos. It was the tiniest bit too sheer to use on its own, so I added a full lining of another weird rayon substance (not the bemburg I was hoping for). Online shopping is risky business...

As much as I love the feel and pressability (that's a word now) of rayon, it has it's problems. Half an hour of meticulous ironing was completely undone after a 2 minute drive to the photo shoot destination... Don't even know what is going on with the bust pleats in these photos. I promise it was lovely and smooth on the night!

I used french seams throughout the lining and waist seam, and pinked the main skirt seams to avoid bulk. I added facings to the lining to avoid any pale blue from peaking out around the neckline, and handpicked the lining to the main fabric along the side slit. The awesome orange stuff on the front panel is a piece of velvety burnout chiffon that has been in my stash forever.

Obligatory leg flash!

Angelina Jolie makes it look so much easier...
It's the end of Winter, so no judging the ghostly colour of my leg... I wore lacy black tights to the event and it looked much more glamorous. I hope.

So, I'm pretty sure this is the first of many Anna dresses.
Have you made a version? Or multiple? If so, show me show me!

And have a lovely week :)

The Senna LBD!

Hi everyone! Just wanted to thank you all so much for the lovely comments on my last post. Knowing that people have so much faith in my little business is totally inspiring :)

Today's project is exciting for a couple of reasons: it's a completely new style for me, and it's also my first foray into pattern testing!

When I first saw Lindsay's newest pattern, the Senna dress, I knew that I was destined to make a little black version. It looks like I wasn't the only one; check out these gorgeous LBD Senna dresses by Mady and Beth!

Although pencil skirts and tight-fitted clothing aren't my usual cup of tea, I was drawn to the lovely combination of ruched skirt with loose, blouson style top. The versatility of this pattern makes it ideal for trying out a new style or silhouette - if all else fails, it makes some great separates. The sleeve length is perfection, and I do love a kimono top!

Being somewhat lacking in the tall and slender department, I had some doubts about ever looking as demure as Lindsay does in her floral number. For this reason, my version is a secret two-piece!

Using a super drapey knit fabric from the Remnant Warehouse, I cut a size 10 for both skirt and top variations. I left the top longer in length, so that it just tucks beneath the skirt waistband.

Despite being amazingly soft, my fabric was a little more lightweight than it should have been (the toils of internet shopping...), so tights are pretty much a necessity. The plus side of this accident is that it ruches extremely well. Rather than shirring, I stitched over a thin strip of elastic at each side seam. This is the recommended method in the released pattern, and it's so simple and effective!

My skirt looks a lot shorter than the pattern intends, but it wasn't cut that way. Another positive of the thin fabric is that I can pull the gathers up and down and adjust the length however I like! Wearing it as an extra-ruched mini feels a bit more secure, and I think it's more flattering on my short legs :D

In all, I'm really happy with this outfit. Like most knits, it comes together ridiculously fast - I finished it in an afternoon! And making separates has already proven to be a great idea. The close fit of the skirt will take a bit of getting used to, but I'm imagining so many awesome batwing blouse/baggy sweater combinations!

Despite my lack of tight-skirt confidence, I'll admit that these photos turned out pretty great. It's all in the posture! These dorky little legs have minds of their own (and plaid tights make it so much worse!) Maybe one day I'll show you some outtakes... 
In time, when I have perfected the art of walking and standing sensibly, this skirt will be a serious staple!

What do you think? Are you planning your own Senna dress?

Obligatory Disclaimer: This is not a paid review. The Senna pattern was provided for free, as compensation for honest feedback during the testing process. All opinions are my own.

A Striped Knit Dress - With Sparkles!

I bought this organic cotton jersey a few months back, after seeing this knit dress from Madewell (no longer available). I have been loving the combination of horizontal and vertical stripes for a while now, and there's nothing better than a looming essay on rhetorical criticism to motivate me to sew!

Warning: Despite my sad hair day, this is a pretty picture-heavy post. This dress is that awesome!

If you have been reading this blog a little while, you might recognise the bodice from my blue striped top. The unexpectedly trusty Simplicity 9427 was a pretty perfect candidate for this dress style.

I cut the size XS, stopping at the waist-line, plus taking a slice out of the center back and a decent amount from the side seams to account for stretch. As happy as I am with the result, I sort of wish I had stayed true to my inspiration and straightened the front side seams. 

Next time I guess!

All seams and top-stitching were done using a ballpoint needle and zig-zag stitch on my regular machine. I used a strip of elastic to gather the skirt pieces before attaching them to the bodice. This means that the waist seam is extra flexible when pulling the dress on and off. PJ level comfort!

The jersey is pretty lightweight, so it's going to be awesome in Summer. For now, though, it goes nicely with tights and a cardigan!

Because the fabric is so thin, I decided to line the bodice for a bit more structure and opacity. The back panel is lined with self-fabric, and was literally the only stripe-matching required for this dress! I lined the front pieces using a soft and slightly thicker cream knit from my scrap pile. 

The greatest thing about this jersey is near invisible in the above photos, so here are some gratuitous close ups. Gold sparkles!

If you want to get your hands on some of this gold striped organic cotton jersey, it's still available via The Remnant Warehouse (AU & NZ). I'm hoping to scrounge a casual top out of my leftovers!

Lining a knit garment is not something I have done before, but with careful pinning it was pretty straightforward. The result is beautiful. I love the clean neckline and the way it makes the whole dress feel more secure. I'm positive that it will last longer too. 

Have you ever lined a knit garment (the Moneta dress, perhaps)? I'd love to hear what you think!

Happy Sunday!

A Blue Knit Shrug

I'm so excited to finally share this project!

In between shop orders and uni work, I have been slowly working away on this knitted shrug, using the free Rectangle Knit Shrug pattern by Lion Brand.

The pattern comes together surprisingly quickly if you're a reasonably fast knitter. I had only just started to go insane by the time I finished the second piece. Plus, all that stockinette makes this the perfect movie-watching project.

I never really understood the appeal of owning a "shrug" (they're weird and awkward and what if your front gets cold?!). That is, until I saw this glittery navy version. Maybe it's the styling, but something about it is just cool. I still wish mine was glittery.

  

My shrug was made using a 5ply (sport weight) merino yarn from Bendigo Woolen Mills. It's super warm and I love the muted blue colour, which is a little darker in person.

I only made a few changes when following the pattern: My sleeve cuffs are a little shorter, and I used a different method to join the pieces at the back seam.
The method I used (tutorial here) leaves you with a nice neat seam that is practically invisible on the outside (should have taken a photo...). The seam is also flat enough to incorporate embroidery like I did!

I included the button-holes but ended up leaving off the buttons. As awesome as wooden buttons would have looked, I honestly have no idea why they are recommended. Unless you go up a size (I knit a small) or happen to have a miniature ribcage, it looks pretty terrible pulled closed!

The embroidery was kind of a last minute, late-night decision. I wanted to add something special to compliment all those hours worth of stockinette. It's a very very simple design: just a few lines of running stitch using a fine orange yarn from my stash, with some silver and white threaded through. I love it though, and it seems to make all the difference when deciding whether or not I should wear it.

Am I a converted shrug-wearer now? We'll see, but I think just this one might be enough. I'd love to hear how you all feel about the truly fascinating topic that is the shrug :P

Hope everyone has had a lovely week!

Olive Green Darling Ranges

This is my second version of the Darling Ranges dress (first version here). It's also my first project as part of Sally's Summer Stashbust challenge! I found this olive green rayon for $5 at Lifeline at least 6 months ago. It's so hard to find nice prints in rayon, so I couldn't resist this unusual floral design.

Pattern details:
Similar to last time; I raised the neckline a few centimeters, and took a little length out of the shoulders. The shoulders are still a little too long for me, making the neckline a bit gapey and the bust darts a little low. The drag lines are even more noticeable in this soft fabric. Next time I'll revert back to the original neckline and take even more from the shoulders.

For comfort, and to stop the sleeves from twisting around, I replaced the elastic cuffs with shirt-style cuffs. The insides are all French seamed - it's so much nicer in rayon. I also shortened the hem quite a lot. This length works much better on my short legs!

Outfit details:
Necklace: Fawn & Rose
Leather belt: vintage
Boots: All 4 Me

You'll have to excuse my tired face. This is literally the third attempt this week at photographing this dress. It still clashes pretty badly with the brick wall, but it was the only place where I was sheltered from horrible icy winds. So thankful for pockets!

In the spirit of being more organised, I recently ordered 100 little wooden shirt buttons from SkullButtonry (currently on vacation). I get so tired of never having quite enough of the same button, and I never realised how much more affordable buttons are in bulk (duh!).

All the profits from the SkullButtonry supplies store go towards Foundation 18's orphanage "Yayasan Dharma Sadana", as well as education outreach programs and humanitarian work in Indonesia.

Definitely no regrets here!

Happy Friday! Hope everyone has had a great week!

Winter in Shades of Purple

The cold weather has put a bit of a dampener on current sewing projects, but my hands have stayed plenty busy. To make the most of the uni break, I have been spending my mornings knitting in the sunny front room of the house. Bean keeps me company. In fact, it's the only room in the house where either of us can be found in a cheerful mood.
We are definitely not Winter souls.

After the purple theme of my last post, I thought I'd share a few recent knitting projects :)

These elbow length wool gloves are even warmer than they look. Gentle shaping on the inside of the wrist creates a smooth, comfortable fit across the wrist. I'm very tempted to make a pair for myself, eventually - the biggest hurdle is choosing a colour! These gloves would also feel amazing in organic cotton. Just imagine their soft, delicate look when made up in a pastel blue...

This scarf is a purple variation of my Chunky Wool Cowl. What makes it special is the blend of wool with bamboo. The bamboo content (50%) adds some weight, giving the cowl a lovely drape. It also creates a shimmery, jewel-like sheen in most lights. I'll definitely be using this blend in other projects!

Both of these projects were custom variations of designs available in my Etsy store.

Surviving the cold with Coco!

I think that was my first blog title pun! The first two days of Me Made May have been a success - all thanks to Tilly's Coco pattern. I have used this pattern three times so far: first this dress, and now two super comfy tops. I actually don't think I'll get through the rest of this month without wearing them again (or making more). It has been so cold that snow is predicted for this weekend. Proper snow!

Seriously, it may look like a nice sunny day in this photo but the air was so freezing that I've been wrapped in a blanket ever since!

Check out that awesomely smooth neckline!

The neckline on my Coco dress was a little gapey, despite stabilising it with a woven selvedge strip. This time I used a strip of very thin fusible interfacing and it worked like a charm. The little grey gloves I'm wearing are from my shop. Nice and warm, but not really the best match for this outfit. I'll definitely be making some black ones!

After all these years of pulling on freezing cold jeans in the morning and longing for my pajama pants, I have finally discovered that it's way warmer just wearing a maxi skirt with tights underneath! Completely irrelevant information right now for any northern hemisphere folk. Maybe you'll remember it next Winter and thank me :P

The second top is made from a slightly thicker (and less iron-friendly) knit. The big plaid pocket is some flannelette from my stash, cut on the bias so that it stretches with the knit. I kind of love the combination.

Both tops are made from the thrifted fabric I found the other week. I cut a size 2 this time, to accommodate the extra stretch in the fabric, but I probably could have graded up across the chest as it does pull quite a bit across that area.

Pattern adjustments: Shortening at the waist plus a small sway back adjustment.

When I first started sewing, I just couldn't get excited about the idea of making basics like these. Now that I do, it feels like my sewing has reached a whole new level. Neither of these tops are a completely perfect fit, but they are still ridiculously more flattering than generic store-bought sizes. This has a surprisingly large impact on my self confidence - something I might go into in more depth at a later date.

DIY Pretty Patchwork Oven Mitts - Pattern & Tutorial

With a week and a half left until Mothers Day, I thought I'd post the pattern and instructions for my patchwork oven mitts!

These gloves make such a great gift - they're actually useful! And so fun to customise for different colour schemes. I wanted bright oranges and yellow to compliment the light blue walls in my kitchen. For my mother's gloves, I used olive greens and browns - they should look lovely with the earthy colours and dark wooden floors throughout her house :)

Materials:

• Glove pattern
• 3 fat quarters/large scraps of quilting weight cotton in your chosen colours
• Cotton wadding/batting fabric
• Cotton lining fabric
• Matching thread
• Small piece of string or ribbon (for hanging)

Tools:

• Printer & two sheets of paper
• Scissors
• Glue or tape
• Ruler
• Pins
• Iron
• Sewing machine

I used a 100% cotton wadding fabric that's available in most fabric stores. If you can't find any of the cotton stuff, most store-bought oven mitts have polyester wadding inside, so you should be safe using that instead.
For lining, anything cotton will do. My lining fabric is a very thin cotton shirting from my stash, but even cheesecloth would look lovely.

Before you begin, be sure to prewash your fabrics to avoid shrinkage or puckering later. Treat them as you would treat a pair of used oven mitts! And press with plenty of heat/steam.

• Download, print and assemble the 2 page pattern. Cut out the glove shape and keep in one piece for now.

• Cut your lining and wadding pieces as follows:

Adding your own seam allowance, cut 4 lining pieces. Mark the stitch line around the inside of the thumb onto all 4 pieces. This will make stitching it all together later much easier.

Your wadding pieces do not need a seam allowance.
How many pieces you cut will depend on the thickness of your wadding. If your wadding is thick enough to hold hot objects, cut 4 pieces. My cotton wadding was a little thin, so I used a double layer and cut 8 pieces.

Side note: If you plan on making multiple pairs of these oven mitts (all of the birthdays!), it might be a good idea to cut out all of your lining and wadding pieces now. It is the most tedious part of the project, and you'll be so relieved that it's already done when you start the next pair!

• Now you can cut your pattern along the lines into 4 segments. 
• Fold your fat quarters/scraps in half twice, so that you are cutting 4 layers at once. Adding seam allowance, trace and cut out your pieces. Lay out all of your pieces so that you know which ones go together.
• Neatly stitch all of your pieces together and press them flat. You should now have 4 glove shaped pieces!

• Now you're making 4 fabric sandwiches! Lay your wadding piece(s) on top of your outer layer, and your lining piece on top of that. Right sides should be facing outwards. Pin your sandwich together.

• Time for some quilting! Now, I'm not much of a quilter, so I'm sure there's another way to do this, but this is how I sew straight lines: place a thin ruler (or something similar) just to the left of your needle. Line it up straight and lower your presser foot to hold it in place. Keep the ruler straight and use it as a guide as you sew!
• Repeat for all 4 of your fabric sandwiches. 

• Take either side of one glove, and pin together with ride sides facing. Stitch around the edge (leaving the bottom end open). Follow the line you marked earlier when stitching around the thumb. Repeat for the other glove.

• Clip your seam allowances with pinking shears, or trim and finish with a small zigzag stitch. Clip the curves around the inside of the thumb, being careful not to cut across the stitch line.
• Turn your gloves inside out and press flat. Trim the bottom edges.

• Make and attach your own bias binding for a lovely contrast edge. Here are some lovely tutorials if you need help: [making bias binding] [attaching bias binding]. 
• Knot a loop of string or ribbon and fasten inside the corner of each glove. 
• Get baking with your awesome, one-of-a-kind oven mitts!

If you make a pair of gloves, I'd love to see them! :)

Let me know in the comments, send me an email, or tag them on instagram with #fozzelandbean!

I hope you've enjoyed my very first tutorial!